Custom dress shirts

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    Dec 28, 2010 12:37 AM GMT
    Does anyone have any experience with custom-made dress shirts? I'm wondering whether it's less expensive than buying some of the nicer ones out there off the rack (which sometimes need tailoring anyways). I'm partial to Eton shirts, but they're so durn expensive!
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:16 AM GMT
    Marshalls
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:17 AM GMT
    You look better without a shirt.
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:19 AM GMT


    H&M

    very fashionable and a lot less expensive than let's say Nordstrom's and Nieman Marucs
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:20 AM GMT
    Depends on whether the tailor you are using is good or not.
    You can get a cheep tailor who will make a made to measure shirt, but the cut may be bad and stuff, where as the more expensive shirts like Dior Homme or YSL would be better.
    But if u get a really really good tailor, like the guys we have in Saville row in london, its usually better than off the peg ready to wear stuff

    If you have a bit of money for a shirt, you should try Tom Ford, he does a custom service and some shirts off the peg in his stores.
    Hes the best in the US by far.
    His cut is focused on a narrow shoulder cutting down into the sides....very good for guys with big shoulders and small waists ;-)
  • jimjock

    Posts: 278

    Dec 28, 2010 1:21 AM GMT
    Ike Behar and have them fitted on the sides... Well worth the money and the extra effort.
    newfinal2.jpg


    http://www.ikebeharonline.com/index.html

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    Dec 28, 2010 1:25 AM GMT
    Here is Toronto in the financial district there are a couple of high volume tailoring stores that offer custom mades for $125-200 and made-to-measure for about $70.
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:27 AM GMT
    Custom is not really more expensive than "off the rack". But do the homework!
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:29 AM GMT
    I have a dress shirt that I really love, so I took the shirt to a tailor and had him copy it in 5 different colors. They are amazing and less than half of what the designer shirt cost.
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:36 AM GMT
    I'm up in Canada, so there's no Marshalls or Macy's here. And I'm in Halifax--though we do have an H&M. I have one Eton shirt which I got on sale and love it, but my shape has changed, so now it's too big. Eton's normally retail for about 250, so a 100-150 tailor-made has the potential to be a cost saver from that reference point. My "problem" (it's not a problem, just a reality) is that my shape is changing quite a bit (I was on a bulking "phase" and just basically got fat, and now am leaning down) and hasn't fully stabilized yet, so blowing a LOT of money would be a mistake.
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    Dec 28, 2010 1:59 AM GMT
    bryanc_74 saidI'm up in Canada, so there's no Marshalls or Macy's here. And I'm in Halifax--though we do have an H&M. I have one Eton shirt which I got on sale and love it, but my shape has changed, so now it's too big. Eton's normally retail for about 250, so a 100-150 tailor-made has the potential to be a cost saver from that reference point. My "problem" (it's not a problem, just a reality) is that my shape is changing quite a bit (I was on a bulking "phase" and just basically got fat, and now am leaning down) and hasn't fully stabilized yet, so blowing a LOT of money would be a mistake.


    I'm in a similar boat. Body changing. No business clothes fit. Decided to go cheap until I get where I want to be. Then go higher-end. Does Harry Rosen's have a Halifax store? Or Holt's? The bigger Bay stores will offer them, too.
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    Dec 28, 2010 10:36 AM GMT
    Custom made shirts certainly cost more than the ready to wear. All the shirt makers on Jermyn Street in London charge a premium for that little extra. An £80 shirt from Emmett would cost £120 - £140 if it were to be custom made. I love Eton shirts, in fact they form the staple of my work wardrobe as I find they seem to be the only ones that have a good fit for my frame and my rather long arms, besides Dolce & Gabbana.
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    Dec 28, 2010 10:53 AM GMT
    Ralph Lauren 16.5/35, Facconable, Brooks Bros., American Eagle....have been intrigued by those ads for Hong Kong custom made shirts............Five for $120 or whatever....never succumbed....
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    Dec 29, 2010 2:46 PM GMT
    It's about the button holes. The eaiser to open the better the shirt
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    Dec 31, 2010 8:36 PM GMT
    DelisleGuy said
    bryanc_74 saidI'm up in Canada, so there's no Marshalls or Macy's here. And I'm in Halifax--though we do have an H&M. I have one Eton shirt which I got on sale and love it, but my shape has changed, so now it's too big. Eton's normally retail for about 250, so a 100-150 tailor-made has the potential to be a cost saver from that reference point. My "problem" (it's not a problem, just a reality) is that my shape is changing quite a bit (I was on a bulking "phase" and just basically got fat, and now am leaning down) and hasn't fully stabilized yet, so blowing a LOT of money would be a mistake.


    I'm in a similar boat. Body changing. No business clothes fit. Decided to go cheap until I get where I want to be. Then go higher-end. Does Harry Rosen's have a Halifax store? Or Holt's? The bigger Bay stores will offer them, too.


    I spent the morning at Harry Rosen's in Toronto yesterday. Nothing fits off the rack. The regular fits are way too boxy, and the slim fits are skin tight on my arms. Please note, I am NOT complaining about having this problem--just trying to come up with a good solution.

    I don't really see the point of buying a shirt at 100-175 dollars that I'm just going to have to get a tailor to alter at 10-15 dollars a shirt (depending on how much of it they have to take apart.
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    Dec 31, 2010 8:41 PM GMT
    You go custom, you will never go back. Most of the high-end tailors do tours all over, where they base out of hotels, and you go in for measurements if you're not in a major city.

    Definitely worth it, especially if you have a build that doesn't adapt to off-the-shelf easily.
  • needleninja

    Posts: 713

    Dec 31, 2010 8:47 PM GMT
    hmmmmm.... now this gives me motivation to learn alterations again.
  • conservativej...

    Posts: 2465

    Dec 31, 2010 8:51 PM GMT
    They can be less than the current "label" that is in fashion. Depends on the fabric. I think the tailor I used at one time is charging $115 base rate. If you are into air jet spun Sea Island cottons you may hit $325.

    He tailors silks also. I do not buy those. Shirts designed for formal wear are around $800. The front panel of the shirt of course is where the money goes.
  • coolarmydude

    Posts: 9190

    Dec 31, 2010 9:08 PM GMT
    Ez4711 saidIt's about the button holes. The eaiser to open the better the shirt



    icon_lol.gificon_lol.gif

    Ummmm, on quick glance, that quote kinda looked like this:

    It's about the butt holes. The easier to open, the better the shit. icon_eek.gificon_redface.gif


    (must read slooooooooowwwweeerrrrrrr)

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    Dec 31, 2010 9:12 PM GMT
    Made to measure fits, lasts, looks good. Spend the extra 30 bucks. And not on some designer label.
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    Dec 31, 2010 11:13 PM GMT
    The most expensive clothes you will ever buy are the clothes you never wear. You will have to buy custom made if the shirts off the rack don't fit you.

    Fit is the most important. A good fit with a cheap fabric will look better then an expensive, designer label shirt that has a boxy fit.

    Try a couple different tailors and buy shirts with cheap fabric. Upgrade to a more expensive fabric when you find a tailor you like. Get made-to-measure shirts. Don't pay for bespoke unless one of your arms is longer then the other or you just have money to throw around.
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    Dec 31, 2010 11:51 PM GMT
    somnia saidThe most expensive clothes you will ever buy are the clothes you never wear. You will have to buy custom made if the shirts off the rack don't fit you.

    Fit is the most important. A good fit with a cheap fabric will look better then an expensive, designer label shirt that has a boxy fit.

    Try a couple different tailors and buy shirts with cheap fabric. Upgrade to a more expensive fabric when you find a tailor you like. Get made-to-measure shirts. Don't pay for bespoke unless one of your arms is longer then the other or you just have money to throw around.


    Thanks, I never thought about buying the cheaper fabric shirt at first when trying out the tailor. That's good advice! icon_smile.gif
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    Jan 01, 2011 12:25 AM GMT
    I've had shirts made (Hickey-Freeman) and they're great, but I think I like my off-the-rack shirts just as well. Favorites are Armani, Donna Karan, Zegna, Ralph Lauren (mostly). I go for all cotton - and avoid man made materials. If you have a good number of classics, and circulate them, hanging them carefully on good hangars, you should be set for a long time.

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  • Celticmusl

    Posts: 4330

    Jan 01, 2011 12:31 AM GMT
    Claiborne used to have a men's clothing line called SPA, for guys that work out and have an athletic build. I used to love my shirts from SPA....fitted perfectly. Not sure if they make SPA anymore though....
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    Jan 01, 2011 1:27 AM GMT
    I've gone in both of the directions mentioned here: totally custom-made shirts, and shirts off the rack simply tailored down. My problem is that I have a thick neck, and when I buy a pre-made shirt that fits my neck, the rest of it is a tent on me.

    So all my dress shirts must be tailored or custom-made. Frankly, I can be happy with either solution. The jacket rarely comes off in public, anyway, and if the formal dinner jacket does, I'm still wearing the vest, which never comes off.

    It helps that my tailor keeps my fitting on file, so they can make my shirt without my even being there. Likewise my bow tie size is kept by a Vermont company that makes them all for me. (I absolutely detest one-size-fits-all bow ties with a buckle, that's visible when wearing a wing collar)

    I simply phone them up, and they make my tie to my collar size on file, depending upon what kind of collar I'll be wearing. A wing collar bow tie for me is 1/2" bigger than one for a turn-down collar.

    I highly recommend this company, who've also made my formal vests on occasion, though I think they're no longer offering that service to the general public.

    http://www.beautiesltd.com/