Home Repair Tips

  • metta

    Posts: 39099

    Apr 20, 2012 7:44 PM GMT
    Home Repair Kit

    562011_10150691880623822_523113821_14213



    House Repair Tips
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    Apr 20, 2012 11:15 PM GMT
    Do you teach? May I take your class?
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    Apr 21, 2012 2:19 AM GMT
    OH HELL NO
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    Apr 21, 2012 2:36 AM GMT
    I'm a sucker for HGTV and DIY Networks. Nothing beats know how when you've got a budget of nothing.
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    Apr 21, 2012 3:01 AM GMT
    Oh yeah. Lets go for the right side.

    btw I am currently remodeling my house and FIY and HGTV is awesome.
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    Apr 21, 2012 3:14 AM GMT
    Double wide, baby! Double wide! LOL!

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • metta

    Posts: 39099

    Dec 17, 2012 1:15 AM GMT
    GARDEN GATES FINISHING & INSTALLATION QUESTIONS:

    I have 2 questions. I should have bought garden gates like everyone else, but originally, I wanted something a little different. I had a single gate and double garden side gates custom made out of cedar. I designed them and left places in each gate to put leaded glass windows/panes that I also had custom made. I thought I would save some money by staining the gates myself. So I bought an environmentally friendly stain and I have put many coats on them. It is a burgundy color but took a long time to get there from the first purple coat. ;) Later, I was told that they would fade after a year and would need to be retouched up regularly. I don't like things that require lots of regular maintenance. I have too many things on my plate as it is. Anyways, I have searched all over the place for a product with UV protection that will last a long time. I have not found any. One of the issues seems to be that I have already stained the gate and many of the products say that they need to be unfinished. Also, the products all seem to either crack, peel, turn yellow, or turn to a powder over time. I don't want a product that does any of those things. Living in Southern California, we get a lot of sun. The single gate will have a lot less sun than that the double gates but I need them to look the same.

    1st question: I was wondering if anyone knows of any good products out there that last a long time, are easy to maintain, easy to apply, have good UV qualities, and let you put it over wood that has already been stained. If I can't find one...and I have looked a long time....I'm just going to leave it stained then paint them with exterior paint when they start to fade. I wont be able to see the detail in the wood like I can now but I'm not going to fret over that.

    2nd question: Have any ideas on how best to attach the leaded stained glass panes to the gates. I had another company make cedar moldings to go along the edges of the pane. I was think that I might be able to screw in the moldings on one side, then possibly use some exterior window sealer caulking to hold the panes in place, and then screw in the moldings on the other side of each pane. If anyone else has a better suggestion, please let me know. I'm concerned that the screws will look ugly.

    Once I'm done with all of that, I'm going to hire someone to actually hang the gates. I already have the hinges and door knob hardware (which is entry way hardware) so I want to make sure that they are hung properly.
  • camfer

    Posts: 891

    Dec 17, 2012 1:26 AM GMT
    metta8 saidI'm going to hire someone ... so I want to make sure that they are hung properly.


    hmmm, good luck with that

    You might just have to keep staining the gates every few years. Look at superdeck products.

    http://www.superdeck.com/products/superdeck-for-wood/

    Use finishing nails to attach the molding to the gates to hold in the glass panels. Then you can drive the nails fully into the wood and putty over the holes with matching wood putty. Screws would look bad, yes.

  • barriehomeboy

    Posts: 2475

    Dec 17, 2012 1:29 AM GMT
    I tore a house apart and rebuilt it and it was spectacular when it was done. It's my greatest achievement, so far. Who says a guy with a limp wriist can't swing a hammer?!
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    Dec 17, 2012 2:11 AM GMT
    That's a flow chart for Mr. Slave tricks from Homo Depot...not for home repairs.
  • metta

    Posts: 39099

    Dec 17, 2012 3:55 AM GMT
    camfer said
    metta8 saidI'm going to hire someone ... so I want to make sure that they are hung properly.


    hmmm, good luck with that

    You might just have to keep staining the gates every few years. Look at superdeck products.

    http://www.superdeck.com/products/superdeck-for-wood/

    Use finishing nails to attach the molding to the gates to hold in the glass panels. Then you can drive the nails fully into the wood and putty over the holes with matching wood putty. Screws would look bad, yes.



    Thanks for the tips. icon_smile.gif
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    Dec 17, 2012 4:31 AM GMT
    Semi-transparent deck/wood stains don't have a good track record of lasting more than two years before they need refinishing again, that's if you're lucky and it doesn't get beat by the weather.. A solid stain is a better option and you might get 4 good years out of it, again depending on the location.

    I spent a fortune redoing my deck two years ago with highly rated Behr semi-transparent and by the end of the following summer it looked almost as bad as before.. Yet I followed the instructions to a T, power washed etc. beforehand.. What a waste of time and money. Next summer I'm redoing it with a solid stain.
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    Dec 17, 2012 4:47 AM GMT
    I can barely screw in a lightbulb and my fiancée is so talented he blows my mind!He is handy,crochets,is an awesome hair and makeup artist,he is a great cook,an artist.How lucky am I!
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    Dec 17, 2012 4:12 PM GMT
    Yay. A thread to post my current project. I've a small bathroom in a room I want to rent. I've set up the room to lease to a grad (or at least to a mature) student with a very comfy pillowtop queen bed, corner desk with lots of storage, dresser, storage bench and there are two closets (though one I'll eventually use to make a big steam shower in an adjacent bath).

    The existing ensuite bath is tiny but workable. It has a sliding door with molding someone's dog ate before I bought here, have to fix, a good-sized stall shower that I'm fitting with just a curtain for now but will add glass once I eventually retile but the last owner (I'm only the 2nd owner of this property since it was developed in the 50s & 60s) put in this stupid as fuck oversized sink, making the tiny bathroom seem even smaller.

    So I found at Ikea a perfect little sink, with the faucet set sideways instead of against the wall to further reduce the footprint. It will have glass doors with two shelves behind. This completely solved the problem of the tiny bathroom as now a person can move around to dry off after showering. The floor is restored, polished to a high shine terrazzo but then I sealed it both to protect from water damage and to rough up the surface a little, making it safer when wet.

    Before
    IMG_2544_1.jpg
    After
    IMG_2549_1.jpg

    Here's kitchen project from about this time last year (pics already posted in some past thread).

    Before (demolition is fun)
    2011Sep24006_1.jpg
    After
    2011Nov04006_1.jpg
    2011Nov04003_1.jpg
    Tricked out lighting
    2011Oct17002_1.jpg

    The tricked out lighting is cool. The bottoms are those little round halogens you see at home depot (they get too hot and will replace when diode tech gets better). But the top lighting idea I got from a contractor neighor where I used to live. They're nothing but those rope lights plugged into a socket installed atop the cabinets and then spread over the tops of the cabinets behind the molding. A cheap fix that works great.

    And here's a bath I redid in a rental cottage. First pic was before I bought with last tenants crap in it.

    Before
    the-before-pic-bath.jpg
    After
    bath-renov.jpg

    Note how the grout lines run continously from floor up the walls in all directions. My idea was to visually extend the floor space up the walls and I think that works from outside looking in but from inside I think I just created the affect of being trapped in a cube. Still pretty cool though.

    Per the water problems in a concurrent rehab thread, as the cottage is wood frame, the entire subfloor and all walls under the tile are covered in cement board. You could almost fill that bathroom with water like an aquarium and it won't leak to the wood. Do it right the first time and then the next time this might become a problem will be after I'm dead. Not my problem.

    As for home repair tips, here's mine: rent!
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    Dec 17, 2012 5:09 PM GMT
    Kenneth_w saidOh yeah. Lets go for the right side.

    btw I am currently remodeling my house and FIY and HGTV is awesome.


    know_wunder saidI'm a sucker for HGTV and DIY Networks. Nothing beats know how when you've got a budget of nothing.


    Bryan Baeumler & I love guys like these!!

    th?id=H.4762453839905682&pid=15.1
  • metta

    Posts: 39099

    Dec 17, 2012 5:15 PM GMT
    beneful1 saidSemi-transparent deck/wood stains don't have a good track record of lasting more than two years before they need refinishing again, that's if you're lucky and it doesn't get beat by the weather.. A solid stain is a better option and you might get 4 good years out of it, again depending on the location.

    I spent a fortune redoing my deck two years ago with highly rated Behr semi-transparent and by the end of the following summer it looked almost as bad as before.. Yet I followed the instructions to a T, power washed etc. beforehand.. What a waste of time and money. Next summer I'm redoing it with a solid stain.


    hmmm... that really makes me think that I should maybe just paint over the stain that I have already put on. Paint can last a long time....at least 10 years when done well.
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    Dec 17, 2012 5:16 PM GMT
    theantijock said

    ...the entire subfloor and all walls under the tile are covered in cement board. You could almost fill that bathroom with water like an aquarium and it won't leak to the wood.....



    You do know that ordinary Home-Depot/Lowes cement board is NOT waterproof, right?
    I hope you went with the fiberglass-matt covered type.
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    Dec 17, 2012 5:23 PM GMT
    metta8 said.... I'm going to hire someone ...... I want to make sure that they are hung properly.


    Yep. That's what I look for in a contractor, too.
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    Dec 17, 2012 5:52 PM GMT
    StudlyScrewRite said
    theantijock said

    ...the entire subfloor and all walls under the tile are covered in cement board. You could almost fill that bathroom with water like an aquarium and it won't leak to the wood.....



    You do know that ordinary Home-Depot/Lowes cement board is NOT waterproof, right?
    I hope you went with the fiberglass-matt covered type.


    Ya, was one of first projects I did when relocating (that old bath was just gross) but I think I recall mesh on the surface. Either way, on top that is thin set and then on top that is tile, grout and grout sealer. Okay, so maybe not aquarium tight but pretty much splash proof.

    metta8 said
    beneful1 saidSemi-transparent deck/wood stains don't have a good track record of lasting more than two years before they need refinishing again, that's if you're lucky and it doesn't get beat by the weather.. A solid stain is a better option and you might get 4 good years out of it, again depending on the location.

    I spent a fortune redoing my deck two years ago with highly rated Behr semi-transparent and by the end of the following summer it looked almost as bad as before.. Yet I followed the instructions to a T, power washed etc. beforehand.. What a waste of time and money. Next summer I'm redoing it with a solid stain.


    hmmm... that really makes me think that I should maybe just paint over the stain that I have already put on. Paint can last a long time....at least 10 years when done well.


    No paint. I'd just let it weather with the stain you've got on it. Stuff in the garden is supposed to look at a tad worn. Also I think wood outside is best off when it can breathe, not when it's painted on both sides which you'd probably do with a gate. I understand that the sealers let the wood breathe but I wouldn't even bother. I never sealed any of our docks that were in constant sun, rain and salt water and they looked fine. They'd bleach but that's how they're supposed to look.
  • metta

    Posts: 39099

    Dec 17, 2012 7:32 PM GMT
    I think I might have found a product that will last:

    A Better Way to Apply Spar Urethane?
    http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/

    Epifanes Marine Varnish.

    I'm not sure if it can go over stained wood...but I'm hoping.

    https://epifanes.com/na/store/varnishes-and-clear-finishes/clear-varnish/

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=5725&AMAZON