Rock climbing workouts.

  • ThatSwimmerGu...

    Posts: 3755

    Dec 13, 2012 11:16 PM GMT
    So I have recently gotten into rock climbing and have enjoyed it as lot. My only problem is my hand are weak and get tired easily. Any guys here happen to rock climb and know of good hand strength workouts that you have tried? I'm currently on break and don't have access to a rock wall because it's at the University, and it is not always open so I need other ways besides just climbing. Also any other rock climbing workout advice would be good.
  • calibro

    Posts: 8888

    Dec 14, 2012 4:26 AM GMT
    the climbing up the wall workout is pretty good
  • ThatSwimmerGu...

    Posts: 3755

    Dec 14, 2012 4:50 AM GMT
    calibro saidthe climbing up the wall workout is pretty good

    Oh great comment! Thanks. Really great.
  • camfer

    Posts: 891

    Dec 14, 2012 4:56 AM GMT
    You are looking to build tendon and ligament strength. Tendon strength develops more slowly than muscle strength, so you have to be careful. Static hangs are good training. Just find something on which you could do a pull up, but instead of doing pull ups, just hang from the bar. If you can find a large diameter horizontal tree limb that you're unable to wrap your hands around, train hanging from it to train a sloping type grip. Hanging off your skeleton develops ligament strength. Then, concentrating on the start of a pull up can be productive, as can full range of motion pull ups (not chin ups.)

    Then if you have access to a gym or just an olympic bar, consider barbell clean/press. Although many climbers are afraid that something like this will build too much mass, it will build grip strength along with total body strength.

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    Dec 20, 2012 12:12 AM GMT
    NormalGuy93 saidSo I have recently gotten into rock climbing and have enjoyed it as lot. My only problem is my hand are weak and get tired easily. Any guys here happen to rock climb and know of good hand strength workouts that you have tried? I'm currently on break and don't have access to a rock wall because it's at the University, and it is not always open so I need other ways besides just climbing. Also any other rock climbing workout advice would be good.


    Welcome to the sport! I climb in KC too, and know all to well how scant the selection is

    You can do some wrist exercised that are pretty helpful with just a 5-8lb dumbell:

    Hold your arm out infront of you, fingers straight and on top of the dumbell, thumb straight and below it. Dumbel axix should be horizontal, and as close to your body as it can get. Then raise and lower the dumbell keeping your arm stationary. The inside of your thumb should be holding its weight. If you can do more than 30 reps before burning out, add a couple lbs. After a set, turn your hand 180 so it rests on your fingers, thumb on top, and repeat.

    Metoleous makes a grip ball you can pick up at Moosejaw or Backwoods for grip exercise.

    Then there's various stretches of wrists/calves.

    SLACKLINING is also a good use of time, but hard to do indoors, and its getting cold for outdoors. I've also heard yoga is good as well.

    BTW, you're not THAT far from good climbing. I climb at the LifeTime in OP, but there's also great climbing at MonsterMountain aka Emerald City Gym, and Ibex (though ibex is a bit of a drive.

    If you want something free/outdoors, check out Cliff Drive for climbing or Swope Park for Bouldering. And NKC Community center has free indoor climbing on the last Wednesday of the month (or something like that). NKCCC.org for info there.
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    Dec 20, 2012 12:27 AM GMT
    camfer saidYou are looking to build tendon and ligament strength. Tendon strength develops more slowly than muscle strength, so you have to be careful. Static hangs are good training. Just find something on which you could do a pull up, but instead of doing pull ups, just hang from the bar. If you can find a large diameter horizontal tree limb that you're unable to wrap your hands around, train hanging from it to train a sloping type grip. Hanging off your skeleton develops ligament strength. Then, concentrating on the start of a pull up can be productive, as can full range of motion pull ups (not chin ups.)

    Then if you have access to a gym or just an olympic bar, consider barbell clean/press. Although many climbers are afraid that something like this will build too much mass, it will build grip strength along with total body strength.



    This guys is on the mark. Grip hangs are great for increase both strength and stamina. I would also add plate grips while doing a farmers walk - great for pinching strength to help on those crimper holds.

    A good ole hand grip doesn't hurt either. Not exciting, but effective.

    hand+grip.JPG

    You can also invert the hand grip to put the focus more on strengthening the index and middle fingers instead.
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    Jan 22, 2013 7:08 AM GMT
    Camfer is right. While there's no substitute for a climbing wall, static hangs on a hangboard physical-two-finger-hangboard.jpg in moderation can help you out considerably in between sessions at the gym and time spent outdoors. Don't overdo it--it's just conditioning. Technique gets you much farther than strength ever can, and you get that only through time spent actually climbing.
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    Jan 22, 2013 7:10 AM GMT
    Rock rings are potentially even more useful, in that they offer some of the instability of gymnastic rings. They're also usually easier to install, cheaper, and offer a wider range of improvised workouts. images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ9EbjKMi4fRoWae-U20sB
  • Lucky350

    Posts: 167

    Mar 21, 2013 8:39 AM GMT
    OMG!!!...

    That hangboard kicks ass!

    Where do I get one???

    Add some extra grips and we're good... =)