Well, I was there and bored last night. Could have taken you on a walking tour, such as it is.
The Stark Street "Gayborhood" has been plowed under the wheels of gentrification. There is nothing left there except Scandals, which is a nice enough but somewhat quiet gay bar, diagonally across the intersection from Jakes. (BTW: Jakes is the sort of place with no prices on the menu - if you have to ask, don't go in there.) Where you used to find dance clubs, strip joints (in which you might have actually seen
Gus Van Sant entertaining a table full of twinks) and big nasty bathhouses, there are now expensive restaurants, boutique hotels and pretentious mini-malls.
All of the other places are relocated to other neighborhoods and diminished, or just gone. There are several within walking distance in Old Town. I can't really recommend any of them, except maybe for the spectacle. In no particular order (you can probably find more on line):
Silverado - Everybody has to go there at least once. Greatly diminished from its former Stark street version - Now on 3rd Ave. Stand around and drink beer to excessively loud "music" and watch strippers take their clothes off and.... just sort of stand there on stage. Nobody dances.
CC Slaughters - NW Davis Street. Well... there's dancing. Guess I'm too old for that crowd or something.
The Eagle is way out on Lombard somewhere now. I haven't been interested enough to drive all the way out there.
Casey's... I think they've moved to 5th? Haven't been in the new place.
Fox & Hounds. On 2nd. Sort of a Gay Bar - more of a burger/Pub place.
Darcelle XV - Drag Queens
The Embers - Drag Queens and dancing
Steam Portland - Bath house way out on Sandy. Clean and occasionally will have a bunch of hot guys - but often not.
Hawks - Bath house on Grand (just East of the River). Smaller bath house that caters more to bears and pigs - or as they put it "nonjudgmental" compared to Steam
There are more places out on the East side that are more... Bohemian-wanna-be, not so much "gay."
Might be a better use of your leisure time to go on a brew pub crawl instead of a gay bar crawl.